If your dog is over about 100 pounds, or built long-and-low, or deep through the chest, most size charts simply do not have a row for them. That is not because your dog is strange. It is because nearly every dog-clothing chart sorts by weight, and weight tells you almost nothing about shape.
The American Kennel Club’s own breed standards make the point better than any brand could. The Newfoundland standard describes a dog that is “slightly longer than tall.” The Great Dane standard says that “in the ratio between length and height, the Great Dane should be square.” Both breeds run well past 100 pounds. They need different back lengths. A chart with one row labelled “XL — up to 100 lbs” cannot serve them both, and it does not try to.
So stop shopping by weight. Measure chest girth, back length and neck, then buy against those three numbers — or accept that for some dogs the answer is a tailor rather than a size chart.
And before any of that: not every big dog needs a coat. A Newfoundland in a dense double coat usually doesn’t. A Great Dane, with what the AKC calls a short, smooth coat, often does, because the AVMA notes that short-haired pets feel the cold faster. Size doesn’t protect a dog from cold. Coat does.
Do Great Danes and other giant breeds need a coat?
It’s a reasonable question. A 140-pound dog has a lot of body to keep warm, and it’s easy to assume that much dog must manage on its own. But the vets’ list of what decides cold tolerance doesn’t include size. The AVMA says cold tolerance varies from pet to pet based on coat, body fat, activity level and health. Long-haired or thick-coated dogs tend to be more cold-tolerant, though still at risk in real cold. Short-haired pets feel it faster.
That splits the giant breeds roughly in two. It also answers a question people ask about Danes in particular: the AKC lists the Great Dane’s coat type as smooth rather than double, and the breed standard on the same page describes a coat that is “short, thick and clean with a smooth glossy appearance.” There is no woolly undercoat doing the work a Newfoundland’s does.
| Giant breed type | Coat for cold? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Short, smooth coats: the Great Dane and other short-coated or lean giants | Often worth it in winter, especially on longer or slower walks | Little insulation and, on the leaner ones, little body fat. The AKC’s winter coat guide notes that short-coated and naturally lean dogs can quickly become cold |
| Heavy double coats: Newfoundland, Great Pyrenees, Bernese-type dogs | Usually not for warmth | The coat is the insulation. A garment on these dogs is mostly about rain, mud or a medical reason, and heat becomes the bigger risk (see below) |
| Any giant that is old, ill, or a growing puppy | Ask your vet | The AVMA lists very young and very old pets, and those with conditions such as diabetes, heart or kidney disease, as having a harder time regulating temperature |
If you have a Dane, the signs are the ordinary ones: shivering, hunching, slowing down, or wanting to turn for home early on a cold day. The AVMA’s own advice is simple: if your dog has a short coat or seems bothered by the cold weather, consider a sweater or dog coat. For the general version of this question, including where the temperature lines sit, see what temperature a dog needs a coat.
Sweater or coat for a giant breed?
For a dry, cool day, a sweater is fine and easier to fit, because knit stretches across a deep chest in a way a shell doesn’t. For wind, rain or snow, a coat with an outer layer does more. The AVMA warns that wet sweaters or coats can actually make your dog colder, which matters on a big dog that takes a long time to towel off. Either way, it comes off indoors. We cover why in should my dog wear a sweater indoors.
Why charts stop at XL
Pet apparel grew up around small dogs. When brands wanted bigger sizes, the cheapest move was to scale the same pattern up, and a scaled-up pattern keeps the proportions of the dog it was drawn for. That works reasonably well from a Chihuahua to a Beagle. It falls apart above about 70 pounds, because past that point breeds stop being bigger versions of each other and start being different shapes.
Grading a new pattern for a 130-pound dog costs the same as grading one for a 15-pound dog, but the market for it is a fraction of the size. So most brands stop where the volume stops, call the last row XL or 8XL, and leave everyone above it to work it out themselves. That is a business decision, not a statement about your dog.
Same weight, different animal
It helps to see how far apart the official standards actually are. These are the AKC’s own words, not a brand’s interpretation.
| Breed | What the AKC standard says | What it means for a coat |
|---|---|---|
| Newfoundland | Average height 28 in. for adult dogs, 26 in. for bitches; “slightly longer than tall”; a dog of “considerable substance” determined by spring of rib | Long back relative to height, and a wide rib cage. Girth runs large for the back length. |
| Great Dane | Males “shall not be less than 30 inches at the shoulders,” preferably 32 or more; body “should be square” | Tall and short-backed. A coat cut for a Newfoundland will hang past the tail. |
| Basset Hound | “A short-legged dog, heavier in bone, size considered, than any other breed of dog” | Low ground clearance with a heavy frame. Leg openings and hem length are the failure points, not girth. |
Read those three rows together and the problem is obvious. A single number on a scale cannot separate them. This is how a big dog ends up in something that “fits” according to the chart and still does not fit: the chest binds, the back is short, or the whole garment rotates once the dog moves.
Measure three things, in this order
Chest girth first, because it is the measurement that fails hardest. A coat that is short in the back rides up and looks silly; a coat that is tight in the chest restricts the shoulder and the dog will refuse to walk in it. Then back length, from the base of the neck to the base of the tail. Then neck girth, which matters most on hooded or high-collared designs.
Take all three with the dog standing square, not sitting, and keep the tape snug but flat. If you want the full method with the common mistakes, we wrote it up separately in how to measure your dog for clothes.
What “fits” means on a big dog
Coverage is the part people guess at. The ASPCA’s cold weather safety guidance is unusually specific about it: for short-haired dogs, consider “a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly.” That is a useful benchmark even in the rain rather than the cold, because it describes the surface that actually needs covering rather than a size letter.
Two more checks that only matter at this size. The dog should be able to squat fully without the hem pulling — big dogs have a long way to go down. And you should be able to slide a flat hand under the chest panel; if you cannot, the garment is loading the shoulder joint every time the leg swings forward.
If you have a giant puppy, wait
This is the most expensive mistake in the category. Giant breeds are not finished growing when they look finished. The AKC’s guidance on when puppies stop growing puts giant-breed puppies at 12 to 18 months, notes that very large breeds such as Mastiffs “may not even reach their fully grown size until 24 months of age,” and places the 100-pound-plus category at around 18 months to maturity.
A coat bought at eight months will not fit at eighteen. And it is worth saying plainly that you should not try to close the gap by feeding your way there: Cornell’s Riney Canine Health Center notes in its canine hip dysplasia overview that “overfeeding and rapid growth in puppies can worsen the condition in dogs already predisposed,” and advises keeping large-breed puppies trim as they grow. Buy for the dog in front of you, plan on replacing it, and talk to your vet about growth targets rather than to a size chart.
The heat trade-off is real at this size
A common objection under any big-dog coat post is that the dog will overheat, and it deserves a straight answer rather than a defensive one: yes, a full-coverage garment on a heavy-coated dog reduces how well that dog sheds heat, and on a mild wet day that can matter more than staying dry. The honest rule is that coverage should match the weather and the length of the outing, not the other way round. We went through the actual trade-off in do dogs overheat in coats, and the related question of whether double-coated breeds need one at all in do double-coated dogs need raincoats.
Waterproof coats for giant breeds
For many giant breeds the honest reason to buy anything is rain, not cold: a Newfoundland or a Bernese that comes home soaked takes a long time to dry, and a wet Dane gets cold fast. The AKC’s raincoat guide makes the general point that dogs of any age, size or breed can benefit from a raincoat, and it says something every big-dog owner already suspects: some raincoat sizes rely on weight rather than body measurements, and that doesn’t always work.
The fit rules carry over from the coat section above, with a few rain-specific checks:
- Measure neck, chest and belly, plus neck to tail base. The AKC lists exactly those, with a soft tape. On a deep-chested giant the belly measurement is the one charts most often skip.
- Use the finger test on every strap. The AKC’s rule: if you can’t slide two fingers under the straps it’s too tight, and more than three is too loose. On a big dog a loose strap means a coat that spins sideways mid-walk.
- Plan for the harness. Giant breeds are usually walked on a harness, so either the coat goes over it with a leash opening in the right place, or the harness goes over the coat. We went through both in large dog raincoats and harness holes.
- A hood is worth it on floppy-eared breeds. The AKC notes hoods can help keep water out of a dog’s ears, and that floppy ears can trap moisture.
- Take it off and dry the dog when you get in. The AVMA’s warning that wet coats can make a dog colder applies to a damp lining too.
Shell versus full suit is mostly a question of how much mud your dog brings home. If you’re comparing the big-dog options, start with the best rain suit for large dogs, and if a heavy double coat is the reason you’re unsure, do double-coated dogs need raincoats covers the overheating side.
When nothing on the chart works
- Shop brands that label by girth, not by letter. If a listing gives you a chest range in inches or centimetres, you can decide for yourself. If it only gives you “XL,” you are guessing.
- Size to the largest measurement, then alter down. Taking in a back seam is a twenty-minute job for a tailor. Adding girth is not.
- Check the leg openings separately on long-and-low dogs. On short-legged breeds the hem and the leg holes fail before the girth does.
- Look outside the pet-apparel aisle. Working and sporting-dog suppliers grade for bigger frames more often than fashion-led brands do.
- Consider a custom maker. For dogs past 130 pounds, or for a Basset-type build, made-to-measure is frequently cheaper than three returns.
- Buy a size chart, not a size. Save your dog’s three numbers in your phone. You will use them for harnesses and crates too.
Giant-breed coat questions
Do Great Danes need coats in winter?
Often, yes. The AKC describes the Great Dane’s coat as short and smooth, and the AVMA notes that short-haired dogs feel the cold faster. Size doesn’t make up for it. If your Dane shivers, hunches or slows down on cold walks, a coat is a reasonable answer. Take it off indoors.
Do Great Danes have a double coat?
No. The AKC lists the Great Dane’s coat type as smooth, and the breed standard describes it as short, thick and clean with a smooth glossy appearance. That is part of why Danes feel the cold more than a Newfoundland or a Great Pyrenees of similar size.
What is considered an extra large dog?
In its puppy growth chart, the AKC groups dogs over 100 pounds as X-Large and 51 to 100 pounds as Large. Clothing brands don’t follow one standard, though, so an “XL” coat can mean almost anything. Go by the chest, back and neck measurements on the specific chart.
Are there waterproof coats for giant breeds?
Yes, but fewer sizes, and the same problem applies: many are sized by weight. Measure neck, chest, belly and back length, check the leash or harness opening, and choose by inches. For heavy double-coated giants, a light shell for rain is usually more useful than an insulated coat.
What size coat does a 140-pound dog wear?
There is no reliable answer to that question, and any brand that gives you one from the weight alone is guessing. Two 140-pound dogs can differ by several inches in back length. Measure chest girth, back length and neck, and match those against the specific brand’s chart in inches — every brand’s “XXL” means something different.
Why do so many dog coats stop at XL?
Because grading a pattern for a giant breed costs the same as grading one for a small dog while serving a far smaller market, and because the shapes stop being consistent above roughly 70 pounds. Brands cut the range where the volume ends.
My dog is between two sizes. Which do I take?
Take the size that fits the chest girth, then have the length taken in if it is long. Girth is the measurement that stops a dog moving; length is the one that just looks wrong.
What about short-legged, long-bodied dogs like Bassets or Dachshunds?
They need the length of a much larger dog with the leg openings of a much smaller one, which is why standard grading fails them. Prioritise back length and hem clearance, and expect to alter the legs. We covered the long-body case in more detail in raincoats for long-bodied dogs.
Should I buy a bigger size so my giant puppy can grow into it?
No. A garment that is loose enough to grow into will rotate, snag and trip a puppy now, and giant breeds keep changing shape for 12 to 24 months. Buy to fit today and replace it.
Is a coat even necessary for a big dog with a thick coat?
Often not. Heavy double coats handle cold and rain well on their own, and the case for a garment is usually about the dog being wet indoors afterwards, about skin conditions, or about short-coated giants like Great Danes that genuinely do get cold. If there is a medical reason in play, ask your veterinarian rather than a size chart.
Weight sells sizes. Girth decides fit.
The chart runs out at XL because the industry stopped grading, not because your dog is out of bounds. Take three measurements, buy against inches instead of letters, treat alterations as normal rather than as failure, and wait until a giant puppy is done growing before you spend real money.
Sources
- American Kennel Club — Official Standard of the Newfoundland (checked 2026-09-08)
- American Kennel Club — Official Standard of the Great Dane (checked 2026-09-08)
- American Kennel Club — Official Standard for the Basset Hound (checked 2026-09-08)
- American Kennel Club — When do dogs stop growing? (checked 2026-10-29)
- ASPCA — Cold weather safety tips (checked 2026-09-08)
- Cornell University Riney Canine Health Center — Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) (checked 2026-09-08)
- American Kennel Club — Great Dane breed information (checked 2026-10-29)
- American Kennel Club — Does Your Dog Need a Raincoat? (checked 2026-10-29)
- American Kennel Club — Does My Dog Need a Winter Coat? (checked 2026-10-07)
- American Veterinary Medical Association — Cold Weather Animal Safety (checked 2026-10-07)
Breed standards and health guidance are revised over time. Confirm on the official page, and take any question about your own dog’s growth or skin to your veterinarian.
